What goes into a steak that costs $300USD per pound?

Scotch whisky is typically made from the same ingredients as regular whisky. The main difference is that an alcohol labeled ‘Scotch’ must have been produced in Scotland (and also meet a number of other stringent guidelines). Kobe beef is similar to Scotch in that it’s really just a particular type of cattle that comes from a particular city. In this case, the only beef that may be labeled ‘Kobe’ beef comes from Wagyu cattle in Kobe, Japan.

The Wagyu cattle breed is known for beef with intense marbling (intramuscular fat). Highly-marbled cuts of meat are juicier and more flavorful than their less-marbled cousins. Marbling is also a major factor in how a cut of meat is graded: Prime cuts have high marbling content and that label fetches a premium in restaurants and supermarkets. Think of Kobe beef as super-prime.

Wagyu cattle farmers take careful care of their stead.

One task that makes a day at the farm so long is the vigilant monitoring of the herd.

“Each animal has a unique temperament and (different) needs,” Nakanishi says. “My job is to figure those out and keep them in good health.”

The animal’s eating habits are observed and their physical condition is constantly checked, starting with the eyes. “I could increase the number of cows I raise by not doing all of this,” he says, “but then the quality wouldn’t be as good, would it?” The awards Nakanishi has won at competitions for his champion beasts attest to such perfectionism.

Japan’s supply of Kobe beef is limited by space: both for cattle and the grains that the cattle eat. Because demand thoroughly outstrips supply, ranchers in the United States and Australia have started raising “Kobe-style” beef.

The massive increase in popularity of Kobe beef in the United States has led to the creation of “Kobe-style” beef, taken from domestically-raised Wagyu crossbred with Angus cattle, in order to meet the demand. Farms in America and Britain have attempted to replicate the Kobe traditions, providing their Wagyu herds with beer and daily massages with warm sake. U.S meat producers claim that any differences between their less expensive “Kobe-style” beef and true Kobe beef are largely cosmetic. The cattle are fed American and/or British grass and grain, which is different from the more expensive Japanese feed. Cuts of American “Kobe-style” beef tend to have darker meat and a bolder flavor.

Kobe beef, no matter how you slice it, is the product of branding, genetics, and great care. Wagyu cattle farmers in Kobe, Japan, go to great lengths for their herds. They’re fed the good stuff, closely watched, and given a great life. Though Kobe beef is a bit pricey even for a care-free foodie, the cost is a reflection of the quality and love that goes into growing our food.

Kobe beef photos

Photo credit: Justin Marx.

Photo credit: D Earl.

Photo credit: Joanne Wan.

Kristy’s father, stepmother, and sister were in town a few weeks ago. It was a Father’s Day get-together.

Our ingredients aren’t too complicated: Bell pepper (red, yellow, green), red onion, and baby bella mushroom. Oh yes, and steak. The steak came from the grass-fed cows of a merchant at at the Meridian Township farmer’s market. It was marinated for a few hours in a special, homemade sauce.

At this stage in my life, I’m not an expert on grilling. I turned the reins over to Kristy’s father (it was his holiday, after all). We got the charcoal going and then threw the kabobs on some foil. They didn’t take too long to cook.

We hung out while waiting.

Kristy also made some from great-looking crescent rolls … from scratch. WAY better than the kind you buy from a can. If Zingerman’s made crescent rolls (and they might), this is probably what they look like.

And here’s the finished product. They don’t look too much different from when they started.

Certainly, cooked down somewhat. And the vegetables are singed/browned in places.

What a fun day! The grub turned out well and was well-liked by everyone at the table.

It works because meat is cheap. We can thank industrial agriculture for that. (Briefly, subsidized corn makes for cheap livestock feed).

I try to avoid industrially-produced meat, isntead opting for veggies when eating out. At home, the meat I consume comes from local farms (purchased at farmer’s markets and food co-ops). Though organic is a nice bonus, my main concern is that the livestock was treated humanely. This means giving a pig a chance to be a pig, and a cow the opportunity to do cow stuff.

The meat from humanely-treated animals ends  up being considerably different from the meat of animals from conventional farms. I think it tastes better. Research suggests it’s healthier for you. Certainly, it takes more out of my wallet, but that also means I buy it less frequently and therefore eat meat less often (not a bad thing).

My favorite real food hot dog is an Applegate Farms product called, “The Great Organic Uncured Hot Dog.” An 8-pack will run you $6 to $9, depending on where you buy it and whether or not there’s a sale taking place.

The last Eating Real Food experience with these organic hot dogs was last year, when I prepared The Great Salad Dog. This time, I wasn’t so experimental.

This dog is loaded with ketchup (organic), mustard (organic), and diced red onion. Freshly picked and in-season asparagus was served on the side.

The buns, from Breadsmith, were HUGE! One bun could accommodate two hot dogs, so those were cut in half.

This Summer meal wouldn’t be complete without a good brew. I washed it down with some 60-Minute IPA from Dogfish Head.

The immediate difference between this hot dog and other hot dogs is that this one has substance. You can’t ignore it while focusing on the bun and toppings; you really have to eat this thing.

Though the title sounds ominous about the health benefits of grass-fed beef, the content actually reflects a myth about E. coli.

Industrial cattle production typically uses grain (corn) as feed. Since cows did not evolve to eat corn, their stomachs reach a lower pH (more acidic) than cows fed grass. Corn-fed cows have a greater tendency to become sick; this is one of the reasons that the industrial plants supplement their feed with antibiotics. An externality of this process is that bacteria naturally found in a cow’s intestinal track is killed off. By itself, this is not necessarily a bad thing, but bacteria like E. coli are remarkably adept at evolving into new, hardier strains.

This is exactly how E. coli O157:H7 is believed to have come into relative dominance.

A few years ago, proponents of grass-fed beef brushed off the E. coli threat, saying that grass-fed cows with natural digestive pH levels are not carriers of hardy O157:H7. This no longer appears to be the case. A recent study examined the acid-resistance of O157:H7 in grass-fed cows versus that in corn-fed cows and found no difference.

Unfortunately, this means that grass-fed beef is not inherently safer than industrial, corn-fed beef. When preparing ground beef, regardless of the source, the meat should be well-cooked to protect its eaters (the FDA recommends an internal temperature of 160 degrees).

Meat filler is what ends up in fast food and school cafeteria hamburgers. It is not appetizing to think about, so try not to. If you stop at McDonalds at lunch, you are likely consuming the parts of a cow that would otherwise end up in your pet’s bowl (not that this is a terrible thing).

How do these plants sanitize meat filler? Aside from irradiation, they can also use ammonia. That is right; they inject the meat filler with ammonia on the assumption it will kill off pathogens like E. coli and Salmonella. This process is so foolproof that the USDA even exempted ammonia-treated products from pathogen testing (surprise, though: E.coli and Salmonella still show up).

Ammonia is a naturally-occurring chemical agent that is used in many commercial cleaning products, most notably window cleaner. The USDA believes that ammonia-treated products are safe for human consumption. They very well may be safe, but a recent New York Times article notes consumer complaints about the smell and taste of this beef.

And where is ammonia on the ingredient label? Beef producers asked for ammonia to be considered a processing agent, so they do not have to list it even though it was injected directly into the product.

For me, ammonia treatment is just another reason to skip commodity beef.